Quaint or funky?
Talkeetna is small, but its reputation is big
Published: March 25th, 2004
Last Modified: June 14th, 2004 at 09:37 AM
Talkeetna is a tiny town with a mythic reputation. Although less than 900 people live there, the community has appeared in newspapers and magazines from Santa Fe to Boston, and even as far away as London. In many cases, authors use the word "funky" to describe the community. One Orange County, Calif., writer even went so far as to use the word "hyperfunky" to summarize Talkeetna's image.
However, locals don't necessarily agree with this assessment of their hamlet. Geri Denkewalter thinks that "funky" is much too loaded a word.
"It makes us sound kind of like hippies, something from the '60s," Denkewalter says. She prefers the word "quaint" and likes to think of her community as a must-see destination for both visitors and Alaskans.
Talkeetna conjures different images to different people, but one word that never surfaces is "boring." It's almost as if the town's reputation had to grow to legendary status in order to remain worthy of its nearby neighbor, Mount McKinley, or Denali. At 20,320 feet, Denali is the highest peak in North America. The community and the mountain share some history.
While the area had residents long before, the official town site of Talkeetna was not established until 1919; Mount McKinley National Park (now Denali National Park) was created only a little earlier, in 1917. Not surprisingly, due to its proximity, Talkeetna eventually became known as the hub for climbers preparing to attempt the summit.
If you visit during the climbing season, you may have a chance to mingle with climbers who have just come off the mountain. You'll be able to tell them by their deep tans, rumpled look and gargantuan appetites. If you'd rather get a look at the continent's highest peak for yourself, there are at least half a dozen air-taxi operators in the vicinity. In fact, if you want to fly around or over Denali, Talkeetna is the best departure point.
You can also take a flightseeing trip to land on a glacier. Kahiltna Glacier is the base camp for climbers getting ready to embark on their journey, but the Ruth Glacier is quieter -- and breathtaking. Among flight service operators are Doug Geeting Aviation (1-800-770-2366), K-2 Aviation (1-800-764-2291), Talkeetna Air Taxi (1-800-533-2219) and several others.
The mountain is far from Talkeetna's only attraction. The modern version of the town (don't ever call it a city; inhabitants have vehemently opposed incorporation) took off with the discovery of gold in the area. Part of Talkeetna's charm is that some of the buildings from that era have not only been preserved, they are still actively in use.
The Fairview Inn, which has its own colorful history, remains open for lodging, food and drink. One of its many claims to fame is a reputed visit by President Harding in 1923. There are those who believe his death a short time later was caused by food poisoning contracted at the Fairview Inn. But don't worry; they have a better cook now.
Farther down the main street is the Talkeetna Roadhouse, also great for lodging and food. Staying here or at the Fairview may prove a little more rustic than fancy, modern accommodations, but it also will give you a more authentic Talkeetna experience. And they're staffed by friendly locals who can answer your questions with real authority. Contact the Fairview Inn at 1-907-733-2423, or the Talkeetna Roadhouse at 1-907-733-1351.
Another historic treasure is the Nagley Store. Go in, even if just to buy a candy bar. It's listed on the National Register of Historic Places, which is an amazing feat considering the various traumas the building has undergone. Originally built farther down the Susitna River by H.W. Nagley in 1921, it was moved to Talkeetna when the town found itself on the new proposed Alaska Railroad route; it became a construction camp full of potential business for the store.
Two decades later, the store was moved yet again, to its current location on the main street. It had been victim of a major flood; moving it "inland" proved an intelligent decision.
More recently, the store suffered a disaster in the middle of winter. On New Year's Day 1997, when temperatures hovered well below zero, the building caught fire. In typical Talkeetna neighborly spirit, volunteer firefighters fought the blaze as community members provided moral support, food and hot drinks (Anchorage Daily News, Jan. 2, 1997 -- "Talkeetna Loses Its Lone Grocery Store").
The owner rebuilt, of course. Last time I visited the store, I was looking for an ATM. After being directed upstairs, I underwent my first experience of having to plug in an ATM as the first step in withdrawing money. And let's not forget the bar that can be reached through the back of the grocery store. Small, funky town, indeed.
Talkeetna's uniqueness is enhanced by its location at the end of a 14-mile spur road that doesn't lead to any other communities. The road to Talkeetna wasn't completed until 1964, the same year as the famous Alaska earthquake with a magnitude of 9.2, the largest recorded earthquake in the United States.
Denkewalter says, "You can get the feel of a small Alaskan village without having to fly. There's really no other place on (Alaska's road system) like that."
Nor is there any other place that offers the annual Moose Dropping Festival. Held in July, the festival involves the shellacking and numbering of hundreds of -- how to put this delicately -- moose droppings. It's basically a moose turd lottery. You buy your turd, and you takes your chances.
Combined with the Moose Dropping Festival is the Mountain Mother Contest, which involves women with children who have remained tough enough to split wood, shoot a bow and arrow, cast a fishing rod and carry two bags of "groceries" across a fallen log, among other motherly, Talkeetna-ish chores.
For more information on the Moose Dropping Festival and Mountain Mother Contest, contact the Talkeetna Chamber of Commerce (1-907-733-2330) or the Talkeetna/Denali Visitor Center (1-800-660-2688).
Talkeetna cannot be described with a single word, whether that word be "funky" or "quaint." It is a conglomeration of quirky, charming, fun and, most of all, unique. You'll just have to see it for yourself to decide what it means to you.
(Karen Benning is a free-lance writer who lives in Anchorage.)
What locals say
"I love Talkeetna's atmosphere in the summer -- the mixture of anticipation of adventure with small-town charm."
-- Dayle Sherba of Anchorage
"It's the heart of great fishing country. . . . It also has some good restaurants and friendly people."
-- Bill Dodge of Anchorage
