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Golden destination: Hikers and history buffs all enjoy Hatcher Pass

By STEVE EDWARDS
Anchorage Daily News

Published: April 21st, 2005
Last Modified: November 8th, 2005 at 07:54 AM

When Pat Murphy gives visitors to Hatcher Pass directions, he looks at their feet.

Murphy, chief ranger for the Hatcher Pass area, can quickly tell whether he should direct visitors to Independence Mine State Historical Park or the area's miles upon miles of trails leading to the backcountry.

"You look at people and can tell what they're up for," Murphy said. "If they're not dressed to slog around the tundra, I suggest they take a scenic drive. You can tell a lot from their shoes."

The scenic drive he describes includes stops at all the pullouts along Hatcher Pass Road to Independence Mine. The pullouts look over the Little Susitna River, the vast tundra and the mine. The mine itself is a mother lode of information about the gold mining history in Alaska. Murphy also suggests driving to Summit Lake State Recreation Area and, if the visitors have time, continuing along the unpaved road toward Houston.

What if the visitors are dressed a bit differently?

"If they look like hearty, outdoor-type people I tell them to go directly to the Reed Lakes Trail head -- maybe the Gold Mint -- and start hiking," he said. "The farther they go, the more they'll like it. They can get out and get away from the road."

The Hatcher Pass Management Area includes more than 212,000 acres. The historical park occupies about 700 of those acres, so those looking for a backcountry experience can easily find it.

To get to the Reed Lakes Trail head, the visitors will need a hearty vehicle to bounce along Archangel Road, which receives little if any road maintenance. But the payoff is huge.

It's a seven-mile round-trip hike to Lower Reed Lake. Along the way, hikers enjoy views of the Talkeetna Mountains and snowmelt-fed streams. After crossing a massive field of boulders, it's a gradual climb to the lake. From there, it's just another mile to a waterfall and Upper Reed Lake.

For the adventurous, Bomber Glacier is in the distance. The glacier is so named because a B-29 bomber crashed on the unnamed glacier in 1957; six of the 10 crew members died.

"We've got terrain that is so varied up there," said Jill Reese, owner of the Motherlode Lodge on Hatcher Pass Road. "People can have super-easy trails that grandma can go down, or people can hike across a glacier and camp overnight in one of the old gold miner cabins."

For those who want a more subdued day, spend some time at Independence Mine. Take a trip decades back in time without having to travel very far at all.

The mine area opens around June 1 after much of winter's snow has melted. The park has about 20 buildings that were part of Independence Mine, one of 38 gold mines that operated in the Hatcher Pass area. Seven mines were larger than Independence, but little of the other operations remain other than rubble.

Independence Mine closed in the 1950s. During its heyday, the mine produced more than 34,000 ounces of gold annually. Starting in the mid-1930s the mine was a year-round operation.

"It's pretty amazing to most people that all that happened up here," Murphy said. "Even with lots of snow they worked year-round.

"Most of our summer visitors are kind of interested in history and mining. They'll get a good idea of what it was like to work up here."

While the mine facility is set up for a self-guided tour, with more than 30 interpretive panels and paved walkways, Murphy suggested visitors consider one of the guided tours. They include stops in the bunkhouse, warehouse, mess hall and other buildings. The hourlong tours are $5.

Murphy said the staff plans to do special weekend tours once a month. They will include talks about the geology of the area and tundra plants and animals. He also hopes to include a trip to the Gold Cord Mine, which still has some ongoing mining activity. The Gold Cord has one of the few remaining 1930s-era mills.

Both the Motherlode Lodge (1-907-745-6171, www.motherlodelodge.com) and Hatcher Pass Lodge (1-907-745-5897, www. hatcherpasslodge.com) offer lodging and dining. The Motherlode has a bed-and-breakfast setup, while Hatcher Pass has several cabins that can be rented.

The Motherlode also features a monthly jazz club from 3 to 6 p.m. the last Sunday of every month. There is a $3 cover charge for the music.

Across the road from the Motherlode is the trail head for the Gold Mint Trail. The state refurbished the parking lot, expanding it to include a campground with fire rings, picnic tables and water. All of the state's parking lots require a $5 day-use permit or a $40 annual pass.

Special sections editor Steve Edwards can be reached at sedwards@adn.com or 257-4316.