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Wilderness wonder: Chugach State Park, city parks full of excitement

By STEVE EDWARDS
Anchorage Daily News

Published: April 21st, 2005
Last Modified: November 8th, 2005 at 07:54 AM

From the top of Ptarmigan Peak, the rest of the world seems far, far away. That is until a jetliner streams directly overhead on its descent to Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport.

But a few moments later, peace is restored to our little corner of the world.

Ptarmigan Peak isn't for everyone. It's a fairly strenuous hike, with some troubling route-finding and rock scrambling. My dog even started a mini-rock slide that had me jumping for safety.

But the payoff from 4,880 feet is amazing.

Look east and see one jagged mountain peak after another. Look north, see the route you hiked to get to this vantage point, a beautiful valley and, on clear days, Mount McKinley. To the south, Turnagain Arm's silt-gray water shimmers in the afternoon sunlight. And to the west is Anchorage and Mount Susitna.

Ptarmigan is just one of hundreds of mountain peaks in the massive Chugach State Park. The 500,000-acre park is a backyard playground for all of Anchorage. While much of the park isn't easily accessible, there are some outstanding hikes just a few minutes from downtown Anchorage.

For many locals and visitors, the most popular destination is Flattop Mountain. The distinguishable peak (hint: it's the one with the flat top) rises 3,500 feet above sea level.

While Jerry Lewanski, Chugach State Park superintendent, said Flattop is too popular, he understands why.

"It's the most popular place in the park, and it's really overused," Lewanski said. "But it's so accessible. It's right on the front edge of the park. The climb is a bit of a challenge for most people, so they enjoy it but they have to work some.

"The views from Flattop are incredible."

Don't let the well-worn trail and the fact it's Alaska's most-climbed mountain fool you. Flattop isn't a walk in the park.

During June 2004, there were three rescues on three consecutive days from the mountain. The trail climbs about 1,300 feet from the parking lot at Glen Alps trail head in about 1 1/2 miles. The trail gets especially steep near the summit and may require some rock scrambling.

It's not for the faint of heart and those afraid of heights. And always bring an extra layer of clothing; it's almost always windy atop Flattop.

"We always get several rescues a year in that area," Lewanski said. "There is very loose footing. People need decent clothing and gear."

Hikers looking for a more "wilderness" experience would be better off heading in other directions within the park.

Lewanski encourages hikers to try Alpenglow. The area is a wintertime ski resort and is reached from Arctic Valley Road north of Anchorage.

Rendezvous Peak, at 4,101 feet, is an excellent hike for families. It climbs fairly gently, and the route-finding is easy. Wildflowers are abundant in the early summer and blueberries in the late summer.

"You can walk up there on top of the ridges," Lewanski said. "It's a beautiful place with many angles of the mountains, from the Alaska Range to the Kenai Mountains and back into the park.

"It's going to be much quieter than Flattop. The chances of being alone are much greater there."

Chugach State Park stretches from Girdwood in the south to Eklutna in the north. There is a $5 daily parking fee (or $40 yearly pass) at all the developed trail heads. The passes are available many places around town, including REI, Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking, the Alaska Public Lands Information Center and the Chugach State Park headquarters at Potter Marsh. There is a separate $5 parking fee at the Eagle River Nature Center.

Other Chugach hikes easily accessible from Anchorage include Wolverine Peak, Near Point, Little O'Malley Peak, Powerline Pass, Eklutna Lakeside Trail, Turnagain Arm Trail and several trails at the Eagle River Nature Center.

For those who don't want to tackle the state park or don't have the time or ability to leave the city, Anchorage boasts more than 10,000 acres of parkland and 200 miles of developed trails.

"We sit in one of the most scenic and beautiful areas in the nation," said Jeff Dillon, Anchorage Parks and Recreation director. "We've got great access and lots of things to enjoy."

The city's most popular parks are its small downtown oases -- Town Square Park, the Park Strip and Resolution Park, among others. The city's flowers always impress visitors, Dillon said.

But to get a wilderness experience without having to get outside the city, Kincaid Park and Far North Bicentennial Park / Hillside Park offer plenty for visitors and residents alike.

Kincaid Park's 1,400 acres are on the city's west side at the end of the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, which starts downtown. The park has beautiful views of Cook Inlet, Mount Susitna and the Alaska Range, including Mount McKinley. There are more than 35 miles of trails that are perfect for hiking or mountain biking.

And there are moose, lots of them. Kincaid's gates close at 10 p.m., but the couple hours leading up to closing time are usually great for seeing wildlife.

Far North Bicentennial Park and Hillside Park connect with other parkland totaling more than 5,000 acres. The rolling, forested hills are perfect for hiking or mountain biking, with more than dozens of miles of trails. The parkland abuts Chugach State Park.

"You can get lost in those parks, literally," Dillon said. "From hiking to biking to bird watching to wildlife viewing, they're very popular. People love to go see wilderness. It's a big part of the reason people visit Alaska.

"And they can do that right here in Anchorage."

Special sections editor Steve Edwards can be reached at sedwards@adn.com or 257-4316.