Entering the canopy of huge grandfatherly trees in Sitka National Historical Park, most people feel transported to some mystical place. The giant Sitka spruce trees envelop visitors in this small -- and first -- national parkland in Alaska (established in 1910 to commemorate the 1804 Battle of Sitka). Whether the sun is shining brightly or it's a typical drizzly Southeast Alaska day, you'll feel protected here, and the sharp smell of spruce needles will linger with the more pungent aroma of cedars.
And that is just the beginning of the charm of Southeast Alaska. Here is a place surrounded by jagged coastline, abundant wildlife, meandering trails and massive glaciers. It's home to towns and villages with friendly locals who greet you heartily. It's got outdoor adventure and fine culture. There's shopping, dining and entertainment galore.
But those huge trees -- those magnificent western hemlocks, Sitka spruce and yellow cedars -- are unlike any other trees you'll find in Alaska. And they're all part of the vast Tongass National Forest, 17 million acres spread throughout Southeast.
Southeast Alaska is unique in this way. It's a northern rain forest that produces some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska. Among these forests and along the thousands of miles of coastline of this region, visitors will also discover a land that promises much to do and see. It stretches some 500 miles from end to end and encompasses more than 1,000 scenic and sometimes remote islands. Many people simply call it "the Panhandle" for its long slender shape. The people who call the Panhandle home make their livings fishing, harvesting timber, mining and catering to many visitors who appreciate the area's beauty.
Surrounding the Panhandle are the waters that make up the Inside Passage, and cruise ships are well-suited to this waterway, not only for its tucked-in coves and relatively mild seafaring conditions, but also for the stunning scenery that is so close at hand. From the comfort of a ship, whether a monstrous cruise ship or a smaller 20-person yacht, a visitor to this area can comfortably see a sampling of Alaska up close and personal.
The communities of Southeast are varied too, each with its own history and personality. The colorful cultures of the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian Alaskans punctuate the serene backdrop of the entire Inside Passage. Traces of European influence are here too. The Russians, Spanish, English, French, Americans and Scandinavians also explored the land beginning in the 18th century, and evidence of their presence can be found throughout the region.
There are several ways to explore Southeast Alaska. Many choose large cruise ships, which inevitably will take them to postcard-pretty Juneau, Alaska's state capital and a bustling town with plenty to do. Daily jet service and travel by the Alaska Marine Highway System allow for relatively easy access to Juneau too, although you can't get there by road. Juneau's main road system is only 45 miles from end to end, but despite its brevity, it's a jumping-off point for many activities.
"(Juneau) has the most accessible glaciers in Alaska, " said Elizabeth Arnett, tourism marketing manager at the Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau. "We can drive right up to them."
In fact, she said, there are nearly 40 glaciers right outside Juneau, and while not all of them are accessible by road, there are plenty of flight-seeing opportunities for visitors -- including ones in which passengers can land on a glacier and go dog mushing or ice trekking.
"Glaciers are our thing, and they are easily accessible," she added.
Also off the road system are more than 90 miles of maintained hiking trails, maps of which are available at the visitor center. The center also can help arrange whale-watching tours, fishing charters, bird-watching tours (roughly 280 species of birds live here or pass through annually) and other activities in and around town.
Other communities in Southeast Alaska include Skagway, home to the famed Chilkoot Pass Trail, and the place to learn more about Alaska's great Gold Rush; Ketchikan, considered by many to be the Gateway to Southeast Alaska, as it is a popular first stop among cruise ships; Haines, an independent little town with quirky personalities and some of the best weather of the region; and of, course, Sitka, with its massive trees, well-kept historic buildings, and friendly townspeople who take pride in their seaside homes.
Southeast Alaska is one of the most economically, socially and historically important regions of the Last Frontier. As such, it makes a great destination for travelers who want to sample "a little of everything" and get a good feel for the state as a whole. Its older buildings have a bit more character, its coastline is a bit more accessible and its outdoor opportunities a bit more varied. Come for a weekend, come for a week. You will not be disappointed.
Outdoor and adventure travel writer Melissa DeVaughn can be reached at www.melissadevaughn.com.
SOUTHEAST HIGHLIGHTS
SKAGWAY
Accessible by road, air or water
Skagway Inn Bed & Breakfast
Like most historic buildings in Skagway, this inn from 1897 used to be a bordello (the town once boasted 85 bars and 75 brothels). Each room, named after a different Gold Rush lady of the night, has been renovated and decorated with cozy beds. There is also a bar and lounge downstairs with a light menu of tapas and treats from the garden. It's a great place to lounge with the locals. On nice days you can sit and soak up the sun in the beautifully manicured gardens. Located in downtown Skagway, it is within walking distance of eateries, shopping and nightlife.
Where: Corner of Broadway and Seventh Avenue
When: May through September
Cost: Varies
Phone: 983-2289, 1-888-752-4929
Web: skagwayinn.com
Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau
Offers general information on the town: what to do, where to eat, sleep and shop. Staff can arrange a free walking tour of the downtown historic district.
Where: 245 Broadway in the Arctic Brotherhood Hall
When: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday all year. Also open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekends May through September.
Phone: 983-2854
Web: skagway.com
Skagway Museum
Once the McCabe College for Girls, the first college in Alaska, this limestone building now houses a museum with Gold Rush relics and fantastic Native artifacts.
Where: Seventh Avenue and Spring Street
When: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and 1 to 4 p.m. weekends, May through September. Winter hours vary.
Cost: $5 adults, $2 for children
Phone: 983-2420
Web: skagwaymuseum.org
Skagway Street Car
Take a two-hour ride in a rebuilt 1927 transit bus and get a glimpse of Skagway life past and present. Costumed guides both entertain and inform.
Where: 270 2nd Ave. (Bus tours depart from the dock)
When: Four tours daily, May through September
Cost: $42
Phone: 983-2908
Web: skagwaystreetcar.com
M & M Tours Inc.
This company sells just about every tour available in Skagway. Where: 201 2nd Ave. and Spring Street
When: May through September
Phone: 983-3900, 1-888-983-3900
Web: skagwayadventures.com
HAINES
Accessible by road, air or water
Haines Convention and Visitors Bureau
This central hub offers everything from tour suggestions to menus.
Where: 122 Second Ave.
When: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Extended hours during summer.
Phone: 766-2234, 1-800-458-3579
Web: haines.ak.us
Alaska Nature Tours
One of the most astounding things to see in Haines is the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. The best time to view thousands of bald eagles is in the winter, but you can still spot them in the summer. A wide variety of tours accommodate hikers and skiers of all abilities.
Where: 130 Second Ave. South
When: All year
Cost: Varies
Phone: 766-2876
Web: alaskanaturetours.net
Sheldon Museum and Cultural Center
An educational epicenter for the town, this museum has permanent, temporary and traveling exhibits featuring the historic and diverse cultures of the Chilkat Valley. The museum also supports the local artist community, so visitors can experience locally created music, art and literature.
Where: 11 Main St.
When: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and 1 to 4 p.m. weekends mid-May through mid-September; 1 to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday in winter.
Cost: $3 adults, children 12 and under are free
Phone: 766-2366
Web: sheldonmuseum.org www.sheldonmuseum.org
JUNEAU
Accessible by air or water
Mighty Great Trips
The 12-mile-long Mendenhall is an awesome sight. This tour company offers a wide variety of trips, many of which include a trek to the glacier.
Where: Call first to arrange meeting place.
When: May through September
Cost: Varies
Phone: (907) 789-5460
WEB: mightygreattrips.com
Alaska Whale Watching Excursions
The waters outside Juneau are filled with various types of whales. Although no tour company can guarantee a sighting, it would be a shame not to try. Humpbacks and orcas (killer whales) both make the Inside Passage part of their annual summer trek. Very little beats the beauty of seeing a whale slap its tail, breach and blow.
Where: Call to find out which dock the trips leave from.
When: May through September
Cost: $119-$139
Phone: (907) 321-5859, (888) 432-ORCA
WEB: akwhalewatching.com
Temsco Helicopters
A great way to experience Alaska is from the sky - and a helicopter provides a great view. This company offers tours including dogsledding and glacier hikes.
Where: 1650 Maplesden Way
When: May through September
Cost: varies
Phone: (907) 789-9501, (877) 789-9501
WEB: temscoair.com
KETCHIKAN
Accessible by air or water.
Ketchikan Visitors Bureau and Tour Center
This exceptionally helpful bureau offers great sightseeing suggestions. The Tour Center has most local tour companies represented and staff can book tours on the spot.
Where: 131 Front St.
When: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday mid-May through mid-September; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday in winter.
Phone: (907) 225-6166, (800) 770-3300
WEB: visit-ketchikan.com
Bering Sea Crab Fisherman's Tour
Just about everyone has seen "Deadliest Catch" on Discovery Channel. Well, no one in their right mind is going to give a tour in the most deadly regions, but you can definitely get a taste of it by pulling up your own crab from the Aleutian Ballad, a Bering Sea fishing vessel used in season two of "Deadliest Catch."
Where: Meets on the dock.
When: April through September
Phone: (360) 642-4934, (888) 239-3816
Cost: $149 adults, $99 children
WEB: www.56degreesnorth.com
Totem Heritage Center
The most terrific things about Ketchikan are authentic Native totem poles. The Heritage Center not only exhibits many of them, including some more than a century old. The center offers classes and workshops and exhibits many other Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian artifacts.
Where: Deermount Street
When: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, May through September; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, October through April.
Phone: (907) 225-5900
Cost: $5
WEB: www.city.ketchikan.ak.us/departments/museums/totem.html
Listings compiled by Teeka Ballas.www.sheldonmuseum.org
JUNEAU
Accessible by air or water
Mighty Great Trips
The 12-mile-long Mendenhall Glacier is an awesome sight. This tour company offers a wide variety of trips, many of which include a trek to the glacier.
Where: Call first to arrange meeting place.
When: May through September
Cost: Varies
Phone: (907) 789-5460
Web: mightygreattrips.com
Alaska Whale Watching Excursions
The waters outside Juneau are filled with various types of whales. Although no tour company can guarantee a sighting, it would be a shame not to try. Humpbacks and orcas (killer whales) both make the Inside Passage part of their annual summer trek. Very little beats the beauty of seeing a whale slap its tail, breach and blow.
Where: Call to find out from which dock the trips leave.
When: May through September
Cost: $119-$139
Phone: 321-5859, 1-888-432-ORCA
Web: akwhalewatching.com
Temsco Helicopters
A great way to experience Alaska is from the sky -- and a helicopter provides a great view. This company offers tours including dogsledding and glacier hikes.
Where: 1650 Maplesden Way
When: May through September
Cost: Varies
Phone: 789-9501, 1-877-789-9501
Web: temscoair.com
KETCHIKAN
Accessible by air or water
Ketchikan Visitors Bureau and Tour Center
This exceptionally helpful bureau offers great sightseeing suggestions. The Tour Center has most local tour companies represented, and staff can book tours on the spot.
Where: 131 Front St.
When: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday mid-May through mid-September; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday in winter.
Phone: 225-6166, 1-800-770-3300
WEB: visit-ketchikan.com
Bering Sea Crab Fisherman's Tour
Just about everyone has seen "Deadliest Catch" on Discovery Channel. Well, no one in their right mind is going to give a tour in the most deadly regions, but visitiors can definitely get a taste of it by pulling up their own crab from the Aleutian Ballad, a Bering Sea fishing vessel used in season two of the show.
Where: Meets on the dock
When: April through September
Phone: (360) 642-4934, 1-888-239-3816
Cost: $149 adults, $99 children
Web: 56degreesnorth.com
Totem Heritage Center
The most terrific things about Ketchikan are authentic Native totem poles. The Heritage Center not only exhibits many of them, including some more than a century old. The center offers classes and workshops and exhibits many other Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian artifacts.
Where: Deermount Street
When: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, May through September; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, October through April.
Phone: 225-5900
Cost: $5
Web: city.ketchikan.ak.us/departments/museums/totem.html
Listings compiled by Teeka Ballas.
