The most photographed view of the city of Kodiak is from the top of Pillar Mountain -- two boat harbors, blue domes of the Russian Orthodox Church, spruce-covered islands and fishing boats passing under the bridge to Near Island.
Locals and visitors alike drive, walk or bike up Pillar Mountain for the panorama of Three Sisters Mountains and Chiniak Bay, and to stand beneath the new wind turbines towering 400 feet overhead, their white blades sharp against blue sky or disappearing into the clouds.
Bush planes fly past, traveling to remote camps and villages around the 3,600-square-mile island. To the south is the Coast Guard base, the largest in the United States. Looking down, the busy canneries along the waterfront give a sense of the importance of the fishing industry to the local economy. Kodiak, a town of approximately 6,500, is home to Alaska's largest fishing fleet and is one of the top U.S. fishing ports.
"Kodiak is a genuine Alaskan town, a working community. You can walk downtown and talk to fishermen. Visitors like the fact there's not a lot of fancy storefront facades. The people are friendly and down-to-earth, and visitors like that," said Pam Foreman, development director at Kodiak's public radio station KMXT.
More than 7,000 years ago, people crossed Shelikof Strait and built a thriving culture around the rich marine resources of the Kodiak Archipelago. The Alutiiq Museum documents the history of the Alutiiq people and is a center for modern Alutiiq art and language programs.
In 1763, Russian fur traders pursuing sea otters arrived on the island and eventually established Kodiak as the first Russian settlement in America. The Baranov Museum in downtown Kodiak, once an otter pelt warehouse, survived both the ash cloud from the 1912 eruption of Mount Novarupta and the 1964 tsunami. The 200-year-old building is the oldest Russian-era building in the United States.
Kodiak was the site of a joint operations center during World War II to defend against Japanese invasion and support the Aleutian Campaign. Remnants of the Army and Navy presence can be found at Fort Abercrombie and around the island.
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge, covering two-thirds of the island, was established in 1941 to protect Kodiak bears and other wildlife. These public lands are undeveloped with open access to all.
The Alaska Marine Highway System allows travelers to walk onto a ferry or bring their own cars or motor homes to Kodiak, making it easier to take advantage of a range of pursuits from fishing and hunting to kayaking, rafting, mountain biking, surfing and skiing.
"If travelers are independent and adventurous, they can use Kodiak as a base camp and go hiking one day, the next day go bear viewing, and the next day go fishing," said Janet Buckingham, executive director of the Kodiak Island Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Visitors who come prepared for rain or storms --Kodiak's annual rainfall is 74 inches -- can still get out and enjoy the beauty and bounty of the island.
Attractions
Guided hikes
A good way to experience the "Emerald Isle" is to hike one of the dozens of trails around Kodiak.
Kodiak Audubon has published a local trail guide and also leads guided hikes on most Saturdays and Sundays during the summers. The hiking groups meet at the ferry dock by the visitors bureau and carpool to locations around Kodiak. It's a chance to meet locals, discover new hiking trails and to learn about wildflowers and wildlife along the way.
Where: Meet in front of the Kodiak Island Convention & Visitors Bureau
When: 9:30 a.m. Saturday and Sunday (June through August)
Cost: Free
Phone: See website for hike leaders
Web: http://kodiakaudubon.blogspot.com/
Surfing
Surfing is a growing hobby on Kodiak, with board rentals available at the local dive shop. Kayak rentals, boat rentals and guided kayaking tours offer wildlife viewing and photography of otters, whales, porpoises, seals, sea lions and hundreds of seabirds, waterfowl and shorebirds.
Where: Companies will deliver kayaks, boats or rafts to one of the boat harbors, or kayaking guides may suggest beaches according the weather.
When: Year-round
Cost: Guided day trips in double kayaks start at $145, boat rentals $115 per day, surfboard rentals $25.
Phone: 907-486-4782
Web: www.kodiak.org
Rafting
Adventurous travelers can rent rafts and gear to float several rivers on Kodiak Island. Visitors can make arrangements through the rental companies but must charter floatplanes to be dropped off and picked up for these trips. Kodiak is also the jumping-off place for Shuyak Island State Park, north of Kodiak Island, which offers protected inner bays for sea kayaking and has four public-use cabins available to rent. Shuyak is accessible by boat or floatplane. Afognak Island State Park has two public-use cabins on Pillar and Laura Lakes. Afognak Island, the second-largest island in the archipelago and, along with Raspberry Island, has the only elk population in the state.
Most villages on Kodiak have lodges or B&Bs that offer fishing, hunting and wildlife viewing in beautiful settings.
Where: Shuyak and Afognak Islands
When: Year-round
Cost: Cabins start at $60 per night
Phone: 907-486-6339 (Alaska State Parks, Kodiak District)
Web: www.kodiak.org/community/parks-a-recreational-facilities.html
or www.go-alaska.net/Orcas-Unlimited-Charters-of-Kodiak
Bears
Bear viewing usually involves half-day flight-seeing trips with a local air taxi. From June to August, Frazer Lake is a popular day trip by floatplane because large numbers of bears feast on sockeye salmon near the Alaska Department of Fish & Game fish ladder. Another option, for those who want to hike in and see bears in their natural habitat, is a stay at a remote lodge with guided tours into the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge.
Where: Around the island
When: July through September
Cost: Half-day trips start at $450 a seat
Phone: 907-486-4782
Web: www.kodiak.org
Baranov Museum
Where: 101 Marine Way
When: Summer hours 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 4 p.m. on Sunday. Winter hours 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
Cost: $3; age 12 and under, free
Phone: 907-486-5920
Web: www.baranovmuseum.org
Alutiiq Museum
The museum documents the history of the Alutiiq people and is a center for modern Alutiiq art and language programs.
Where: 215 Mission Road, #101
When: Year-round
Cost: $5; age 16 and under, free
Phone: 907-486-7004
Web: alutiiqmuseum.org
Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park
The park combines the historic ruins of a World War II coastal defense installation with a beautiful natural setting. Tent camping, recreational pavilions.
Where: Three miles north of Kodiak off Rezanof Drive
When: Year-round
Events
Kodiak King Salmon Sportfishing Tournament
Kodiak's newest fishing derby takes place from mid-May to the end of July with all proceeds benefiting the Kodiak Regional Aquaculture Association. Last year's fishermen won up to $10,000 each. The Kodiak Lions Club sponsors the Kodiak Silver Salmon Derby from late August through September.
Where: Kodiak Island waters
When: King Salmon Derby (May through July)
Cost: $50
Phone: 907-942-9059
Web: www.kodiakfishingderby.org
Whale Fest
Whale watchers celebrate the return of migrating eastern Pacific gray whales with a community art show, lectures and music performances, the Alaska Ocean Film Festival, whale watching cruises and hikes. Kodiak Maritime Museum hosts a seafood dinner.
Where: Around Kodiak
When: April 10-24
Cost: Free
Phone: 907-539-2266
Web: www.whalefestkodiak.com
Kodiak Crab Festival
The 1964 tsunami didn't stop the Kodiak Crab Festival, held each Memorial Day weekend for over 50 years. Features food, parade, carnival booths, midway, concerts, a golf tournament, the Great Alaskan Rubber Duck Race on the Buskin River, survival suit races, a blessing of the fleet ceremony and more.
Where: Downtown Kodiak
When: May 26-30
Cost: Free
Phone: 486-5557
Web: www.kodiak.org/things-to-do/island-celebrations/crab-festival.html
Kodiak State Fair and Rodeo
The cattle and bulls are brought over from the mainland, but there is a true local flavor to the Kodiak State Fair and Rodeo, now in its 40th year. High school culinary arts students hold a live judging of such food entries as salmonberry pie, while people peruse blue-ribbon winners in such categories as vegetables, arts and crafts, home brew and flowers.
Where: 10102 West Rezanof (fairgrounds in Bells Flats)
When: Sept. 3-4
Cost: $11 per person, $35 for a family of four
Phone: 907-487-4440
Web: www.kodiakrodeoandstatefair.com
