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Although only 14,000 people live on Kodiak Island, and downtown Kodiak resembles a rough-around-the-edges small town, this is a place where bigger is better.

Kodiak is Alaska's largest island, home of the nation's biggest land omnivore (the Kodiak brown bear), and it's one of the largest fishing ports in the nation.

So, a visit to this lush green island, often called Alaska's Emerald Isle, is a must on any visitor's itinerary.

For starters, this Western Alaska outpost is not overrun with visitors, even during the height of summer. Because Kodiak is only accessible by a daylong ferry ride or an hourlong air flight, and because it is so far off the cruise-ship tour paths, it remains a hidden gem as far as Alaska destinations go.

"I've been to a lot of places in Alaska, and it's all beautiful, but the thing about Kodiak is that when the mist lifts and the skies are blue, it is breathtaking," said Pam Foreman, executive director of the Kodiak Island Convention and Visitors Bureau. "The view of the bay never fails to amaze me."

The best way to get acquainted with the island is to just drive around. Start with a drive from the airport, which offers sweeping views to the right of the bay Foreman is talking about, Chiniak Bay. To the left are Barometer and Pyramid mountains. About five miles from the airport, the road takes a winding turn to the left (called Deadman's Curve by locals before it was straightened out a few years ago) and downtown comes into view along the waterfront.

It's clearly a fishermen's town, with canneries, a few restaurants and the obligatory bar here and there. The smell of saltwater permeates the air, and fishing vessels motor in and out of St. Paul and St. Herman harbors throughout the day, hungry seagulls following in their wakes.

But it's a nice place for visitors, too. Several tasteful gift shops, Ardinger's (907-486-5554) and Norman's (907-486-3315) among them, can be found downtown, offering unique gifts for the off-the-beaten-path traveler. And there's a great place to relax with a cup of coffee or tea and watch the boats come in to St. Paul Harbor, at Harborside Coffee and Goods (907-486-5862). Not right in the center of downtown, but still in the business district is Northern Exposure Gallery (907-486-4956), which features the work of some of Kodiak and Alaska's finest artists.

Kodiak's historic side is worth exploring -- the town is Alaska's oldest continually inhabited European settlement, and the Alutiiq Native peoples date 7,500 years ago -- and much of it can be done on foot. Walking-tour maps are available at the Kodiak Island Convention & Visitors Bureau, 100 Marine Way.

Start downtown by taking in the views of the waterfront. Out on the breakwater, sea lions lounge in the sun -- when the sun is out. Kodiak is known for its wet weather, and many a day it is socked in with thick fog. On those rare sunny days, don't be surprised if the townsfolk become giddy or even leave work early to take advantage of the sunshine.

A new feature at the waterfront this year, Foreman said, are interpretive signs that are being erected by the Kodiak Maritime Museum. The signs explain the biodiversity of the waterfront marine life, as well as point out the various names and origins of the fishing vessels.

"It's going to be a nice added attraction," Foreman said.

From the waterfront, head to Baranov Museum (101 Marine Way, 907-486-5920), which was built around 1808 to store sea otter pelts for Russian trader Alexander Baranov's Russian American Co. It is the oldest Russian building in Alaska and now houses artifacts from the Russian and pre-Russian era.

Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Church at Kashaveroff Street and Mission Avenue (907-486-3854) is Alaska's oldest parish. Tours are held daily except Sundays in the summer.

Or check out the Alutiiq Museum and Archaeological Repository, which opened in 1995 at 215 Mission Road (907-486-7004) and features artifacts from numerous archaeological digs around the island.

Outside of town, there is even more to do and see. For multiday visits, Foreman suggests renting a car; Kodiak's road system opens up even more opportunity for adventure.

"You miss so much of the beauty of Kodiak if you limit yourself just to what is accessible in the downtown area," Foreman said. "The road system is beautiful. We have everything from marshlands, rivers and streams to coastal drives that look out over the ocean."

At the end of Monashka Bay Road is a beautiful day hike along Termination Point, which takes in sandy beaches, rain-forest lush trees as well as open coastal cliffs.

Or drive up to the top of Pillar Mountain for outstanding views of Kodiak on one side or Monashka Bay on the other.

At the end of Pasagshak Bay Road is Pasagshak State Recreation Site, where there is camping, picnicking and even surfing for the few hardy souls who have taken up riding the waves in the cold water.

Drive out Rezanof Drive West toward Monashka Bay Road to reach one of Foreman's favorite places, Fort Abercrombie State Historic Park.

"The whole Fort Abercrombie site has that rain-foresty kind of feeling, and there are huge wildflower meadows with everything from rare orchids to chocolate lilies," she said. "You can see puffins nesting on cliffs, and there are whales right offshore there."

Perhaps the most adventure on Kodiak Island can be had at some of the remote lodges across the island, which offer kayaking, hunting, fishing and other adventures while luxuriating in solitude.