The round-rumped grizzly bear ambled toward us, and I swallowed a scream and the urge to run. It had 6 million acres of Denali National Park and Preserve wilderness in which to roam, yet somehow this bear had managed to find my backpacking partner and me, alone on the Savage River.
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Fortunately the bear only briefly checked us out before ambling on its way. Sixteen years later, that moment remains a treasured experience.
Time has softened the initial fear of being face-to-face with such an intimidating creature and replaced the terror with gratitude at having been in a place where such magnificent animals roam.
Denali National Park is indeed a premier wildlife-viewing destination, and one of the main reasons for the park's establishment in 1917.
Grizzly bears, caribou, wolves and moose are just a few among the 39 species of mammals here, joined by nearly 170 species of birds, 10 types of fish and even a lone amphibian, the wood frog.
"Denali protects all of the wildlife and provides opportunities for people to see wildlife in its natural setting," said Denali Superintendent Paul Anderson.
The park also includes Mount McKinley, North America's highest peak at 20,320 feet, but it is more commonly known by its Athabascan name, "Denali," or "The High One."
Each year, sightseers enjoy it from afar and world-class climbers aim to see it from the top. Nearly 2,000 people attempt to reach Denali's summit each year; about half make it.
The majority of Denali's 400,000 annual visitors come in June and July, but the shoulder seasons of May and August can be outstanding too.
In May, the 90-mile-plus park road could still be partially snowed in, but the early bird can glimpse the area coming alive with color. In fall, the park changes from rich greens to a palette of yellows, oranges and reds.
"The Denali Park road provides the most easily accessible wildlife viewing of probably any place in the country," Anderson said. "We encourage people to come and enjoy the wildlife but also follow the rules so that it stays that way."
ATTRACTIONS
Murie Science & Learning Center
The center offers workshops for families, kids and teachers on such topics as field journaling, wildflower identification, wildlife tracking and geology, among other topics. Classes range from one day to two weeks, and vary in price and location.
WHERE: Entrance of Denali National Park
WHEN: Summer hours are 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. May 15-Sept. 18, and 9 a.m.-4 p.m. in the winter, when it doubles as the visitor center.
COST: Contact the center for specific workshops
PHONE: 907-683-1269
WEB: www.murieslc.org
Denali National Park Visitors Center
This impressive center, completed in 2005, has exhibits, a 20-minute film called "Heartbeats of Denali" and is the starting point for many hikes and ranger-led activities. Youths 12 and younger can become junior rangers. Pick up an activity guide from the visitors center and recite the official pledge to join.
WHERE: Mile 1.5 on the Park Road inside Denali National Park
WHEN: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily May 15 to Sept. 18
COST: Free to visit the center, but $10 per adult or $20 per vehicle to enter the park (pass is good for seven days).
PHONE: 907-683-2294
WEB: www.nps.gov/dena
Denali Wilderness Access Center
The center is the headquarters for bus tickets and campground permits. (Tickets also can be purchased at the Riley Creek Mercantile.) All shuttle buses depart here. The film "Across Time and Tundra" also is shown here.
WHERE: Mile 1 Park Road, just inside the park
WHEN: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, mid-May to mid-September
COST: Free to watch film; shuttle bus tickets range from $26.75 to $50, depending on how far you want to travel. Camping varies from $14 to $28 per night.
PHONE: 907-683-9274 / 1-800-622-7275
WEB: www.nps.gov/dena
Denali State Park
If you can't make it to the National Park, Denali State Park, an hour to the south, offers great opportunities for wildlife viewing, hiking and camping and spectacular views of Mount McKinley and the Alaska Range.
WHERE: Parks Highway, Beginning at Mile 135
WHEN: Year-round
COST: $10 camping, $5 day-use parking
WEB: dnr.alaska.gov/parks
