Alaska Excursions

Alaska Excursions

Wide range of glorious day trips throughout Southcentral Alaska.

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Bigger than bears

Anglers ply the waters of the American River as they try for silver salmon on Kodiak Island. Kodiak is home to a variety of outdoor activities -- fishing, bear viewing, whale watching, hiking, bicycling and kayaking are among the highlights.

Daily News archive 2004

Anglers ply the waters of the American River as they try for silver salmon on Kodiak Island. Kodiak is home to a variety of outdoor activities -- fishing, bear viewing, whale watching, hiking, bicycling and kayaking are among the highlights.

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Kodiak is more than just home to some gigantic bruins

If Kodiak Island has a claim to fame, it's the brown bear, Ursus arctos middendorffi, a subspecies of coastal brown bear that can reach sizes as large as 1,400 pounds for males and stand taller than the average ceiling. They are some of the biggest bears on Earth, and at a population of about 3,000, they have a lot of room to roam Kodiak's 3,588 square miles.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

It is true that many a visitor comes to Kodiak to view these massive creatures in their natural habitat, and to see a Kodiak brown bear -- from a safe distance, of course -- is an unforgettable thing.

Still, there is so much more to see and do on Kodiak Island that it is easy to overlook the small things when on a quest for that one big thing.

In fact, Kodiak Island is home to some of the best fishing in the country. There are impressive hiking and mountain biking trails. The whale-watching in and around Kodiak is some of the most under-advertised but fruitful endeavors one can make. And it's one of the most historically significant places in Alaska.

So go on that bear-viewing trip: Check out the bruins fishing the creeks or romping on the hillsides. But be sure to leave extra time in your schedule for all the other incredible opportunities this island has to offer.

Tim Howland has run 58 Degrees North bike shop (486-6249) for decades. The shop rents bikes on a daily and weekly basis. He said the cycling on Kodiak Island is more diverse than one would guess at first glance. The island has few roads -- ride all of the main roads and you'll accumulate only about 83 miles.

"We're getting more and more pavement, though," Howland said. "Last year, they even did a century (100-mile road ride). They had to backtrack a little, but they did it."

The real fun begins, Howland said, for those willing to ride the trails and dirt roads of the island. The shop features a locally produced guidebook that profiles trails and their levels of difficulty. The publication, "Kodiak Island Mountain Bike Guide: The Joys of Riding on 'The Rock'," is a great tool for visitors who want to rent a bike and start pedaling.

"I would say Chiniak is a great place to ride, and another one is the Saltery Cove Road, which is a hard-core off-road ride," Howland said. "And near town, I would say something like Burma Road and Old Women's Mountain would be good for visitors."

Another option for those who want to include some multisport fun in their day, Howland said, is to drive out Anton Larson Bay to the Bear Valley Golf Course. Park the bikes, eat a nice lunch in the cafe and then hit the greens for some golfing.

The beautiful nine-hole golf course is about three miles from the U.S. Coast Guard Base and includes a driving range, putting greens and pro shop for all golfing needs. Civilians can play nine holes for $15, 18 holes for $25. Contact them at 487-5323.

"There's just lots to do in Kodiak in the summer. I wouldn't be here 30 years if it wasn't," he said.

Kodiak is Alaska's largest island, and as such it is surrounded by supreme kayaking opportunities. From protected bays to its surrounding islands, the archipelago has almost limitless paddling options. Many choose to explore the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge, while some like to stay closer to town and just sample the water. Still others like the challenge of far-out places, such as Shuyak Island State Park (www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks/units/kodiak/shuyak.htm), the northernmost island in the archipelago.

Marion Owen and her husband, Dan, run Galley Gourmet (1-800-253-6331, 486-5079, www.kodiak-alaska- dinner-cruises.com), a dinner cruise operation aboard their boat, the 42-foot luxury yacht Sea Breeze. Owen said the outings offer the visitor a chance to sit back and enjoy the scenery.

"The longer we are in this business, the more we realize that people are really looking for a place where they can relax, get out of that fast pace that surrounds so many of us all the time," Owen said.

To that end, their cruises are meant to be leisurely. Owen, who also is a photographer and organic gardener, stresses the importance of enjoying the moment. With their guests onboard, she often will slip in a free five-minute photography workshop, or take the chance to tout her latest successful food crop.

"I call it sneaky nutrition," she said. "I try to get people to understand, not in a preachy way, that the greens are locally grown. We have people who swear up and down they don't like seafood and they don't like vegetables, but when they have a chocolate beet cake, they are surprised it is healthy.

"We try to help people, when they're seeing the wildlife and appreciating good food, that pattern, understanding that whatever we do as humans affects them too."

Because whale-watching has been so fruitful over the years, Owen said Galley Gourmet is booking more all-day outings rather than its traditional dinner cruises. People enjoy seeing the marine mammals up close, and two or three hours often isn't enough for them -- which is OK with Owen.

"We encourage people to unplug their iPods and turn off their cell phones and just enjoy the whales and take some pictures," she said.

New this year is Galley Gourmet's new bed-and-breakfast, situated on the waterfront and overlooking the path of the Alaska State Ferry MV Tustumena.

"The lot is on the water, about 70 feet up, and you can see sea lions swimming by and the planes taking off," Owen said. "It's a dream location."

Another not-to-miss outing in Kodiak is one of the guided hikes offered by the local Audubon group. Over the years, the group went from a loose assemblage of birders to a dedicated group that offers organized bird-watching hikes and interpretive programs.

"By all means take advantage of the Audubon hiking program," Owen said. "Every weekend on Saturdays and Sundays they host a hike, and that's a fabulous way to get to know people and get to know the terrain around here."

For those who want to venture farther on their own, simply purchase one of Audubon's hiking maps, which outlines some of the best birding and hiking to be had locally. It can be purchased at the Visitors Center; a hike schedule also can be had there.

In fact, the Visitors Center, which is at 100 Marine Way (www.kodiak.org, 486-4782, 1-800-789-4782), is the best place to begin planning a trip to this great collection of islands that make up the Kodiak Archipelago. From lodging to dining, fishing to flying, the visitors center can make a trip to the Emerald Island an unforgettable experience.


Writer Melissa DeVaughn can be reached at mdevaughn@adn.com.


Editor's picks

Just get there: First, you have to decide to put Kodiak on your itinerary. You have to plan to include the Emerald Isle, and you should.

Take a drive: Kodiak has a surprising number of roads for such an isolated place. One of the best is Chiniak Highway, which includes 42 miles of oceanside driving overlooking Chiniak Bay. There are lots of places to stop and picnic or do a little fishing.

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