Visitors to Whittier come and go through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.
The 2.5-mile passage burrowed through the Chugach Mountains separates Whittier from the rest of the state. Sometimes it seems like two different worlds.
A couple of years ago, I, my wife and my in-laws were lined up outside the tunnel waiting for it to open for traffic headed toward Whittier. And we were throwing snowballs at each other. It was September; we were worried about what awaited us on the other side of the mountain. Whittier is reputed to have some terrible weather at times.
And since it's at the northern tip of a temperate rain forest, it does rain. But snow?
Not this time. Our vehicle crawled out of the darkness of the Anderson tunnel to bright sunshine and cool, but not cold, temperatures. It was a beautiful day in Whittier.
And we hadn't yet boarded the glacier-viewing cruise, which was the reason for our visit to Whittier in the first place. As we motored through Prince William Sound looking at glacier after glacier and passing icebergs, birds, sea otters and seals, the day only got better. We finished the trip with some of the best halibut and chips anywhere and headed back through the tunnel to rejoin the "rest of the world."
In addition to huge cruise ships, which returned to Whittier last summer, the town of about 300 residents is home to several sightseeing ships. The larger ones handle hundreds of passengers and the smaller ones significantly less.
Gerry Sanger at Sound Eco Adventures takes six passengers on his 30-foot boat. His boat is beachable, so passengers can walk right off the bow and onto the shore.
"Most people who come with me are usually on their own, not with a tour," said Sanger, a retired biologist who has worked in Alaska for more than 20 years. "I think they'd rather be on a smaller boat because they feel they get a more intimate experience.
"As a retired biologist, I think I can give them a little more information about Prince William Sound. That's what ecotourism is all about."
Because his boat is smaller, Sanger said, wildlife experiences are much more personal. While he can't guarantee wildlife encounters, he said that in the past humpback whales, orca whales and Dall's porpoises have come right up to the boat.
"We've had orcas on both sides of the boat and right under the boat," he said. For more information about Sound Eco Adventures, call 1-888-471-2312 or visit www.soundecoadventure. com.
The larger cruise operations include Major Marine Tours (274-7300, www.majormarine.com), Phillips' Cruises and Tours (276-8023, www.26glaciers.com) and Prince William Sound Cruises and Tours (277-2131, www.princewilliamsound.com).
The cruises are similar but have individual specialties. Cruises are generally four to six hours and cost about $109 to $140. Some cruise prices include lunch, while others offer lunch as an additional charge. Many companies offer transportation from Anchorage via motor coach or train.
Phillips is offering a new cruise this season for early risers.
The Sunrise Glacier Express leaves Whittier at 9 a.m. Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from mid-June to mid-August. The cruise returns to Whittier before 12:30 p.m. and is $99 for adults and $49 for children ages 2 to 11. A light snack is provided.
"This is designed for families with small children who may not want to spend all day out with us," said Marsha Barton, Phillips' manager of marketing. "It's also for people who may have a flight out of Anchorage later in the day but want to get one more activity in before they leave."
Others who may enjoy the morning cruise are those who want to pack as much into a day as possible, Barton said. Cruisers can catch the early afternoon opening of the tunnel and then head to Seward, go to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center or stop at Girdwood for lunch and some activities.
Marilynn Heddell, co-owner of Honey Charters (www.honeycharters. com) and the secretary of the Whittier Chamber of Commerce, said there is plenty in the area to keep visitors busy.
"Prince William Sound is the largest marine playground in the northern hemisphere," she said. "It's just so beautiful. We've been going into Prince William Sound for 17 years and we don't always do the same thing.
"We still haven't seen all we can."
One way for visitors to see more of the area is in a kayak. A couple of operators in Whittier include Alaska Sea Kayakers (1-877-472-2534, www.alaskaseakayakers.com) and Prince William Sound Kayak Center (1-877-472-2452, www.pwskayakcenter.com).
The companies offer short trips just outside Whittier for a couple of hours as well as longer trips, like one to Blackstone Bay where visitors kayak near actively calving glaciers and among icebergs and harbor seals. The companies also offer rentals to experienced kayakers.
"There are so many places to kayak; it's not limited to just one or two," Heddell said. "Beginners can stay close to Whittier and feel very comfortable. If you're more experienced, you can go out and find new places to paddle."
Fishing for salmon and halibut is popular in the area. Whittier has a halibut derby from Memorial Day to Labor Day.
Special sections editor Steve Edwards can be reached at sedwards@adn.com or 257-4316.
