Cordova isn't the easiest place to get to in Alaska.
That's OK, because the remote setting is one of the community's charms. Cordova, with about 2,200 residents and situated on the eastern side of Prince William Sound, is off the road system. That seclusion offers is a true taste of Alaska.
Visitors who make it to Cordova won't find hordes of tourists, as they will at Denali National Park, the Kenai River or in downtown Anchorage.
"Cordova is the Alaska people think of when they think of Alaska," said Martin Moe, executive director of the Cordova Chamber of Commerce. "It actually works to our benefit that we're not on the road system.
"This is a very friendly community. It's like stepping back into the 1960s or something. It's peaceful. Here, visitors can experience Alaska in its many varied flavors."
Cordova is built around commercial fishing, especially the annual return of king and sockeye salmon to the Copper River. But the town isn't so remote that visitors can't enjoy it. The Alaska Marine Highway provides access to Cordova from both Whittier and Valdez. The fast ferry Chenega can get visitors and their automobiles from Whittier to Cordova in about 3 1/4 hours. There also is daily air service from Anchorage.
Visitors this summer will enjoy Cordova's centennial celebration. There will be a variety of activities throughout the summer, but the biggest celebration will be on the Fourth of July. Moe said the community is going to try to re-create many of the activities from the town's 1908 Fourth of July celebration.
"We have a copy of the program of events for 1908 in Cordova," he said. "I don't think we're going to have a shooting contest, and we're probably not going to try to do the undressing race. But we might do the fat man race and the skinny man race; we'll have a log-cutting competition."
But even if you miss some of the big centennial pageantry, Cordova has something for just about everyone.
"We have seven glaciers along the Copper River Highway. We have the Million Dollar Bridge and the awesome views there," Moe said. "We have awesome fishing; in terms of salmon fishing, it doesn't get much better. For hiking, we have 17 maintained trails. You can go all the way from sea level up to alpine.
"We've got kayaking. And Cordova is the gateway to the Copper River Delta, the largest contiguous wetland on the Pacific side of North America."
The delta is a shorebird mecca in early spring. As many as 5 million shorebirds rest and feed on the tidal flats during their spring migration. The Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival is May 8-11. In addition to the birds, there are many activities and workshops offered during the festival.
While today's Cordova is built around commercial fishing, it wasn't always that way.
Cordova was named in the early 1900s by Michael Henry, builder of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. Cordova served as the railroad terminus and shipping port for the rich copper ore that came from the Kennecott Mine. The railroad was 196 miles long, starting in the Wrangell Mountains, crossing the Copper River at the Million Dollar Bridge and ending in Cordova. The mine closed in 1938.
In 1958, the bridge was converted from railway to roadway. It now sits at the end of the Copper River Highway. The bridge was damaged in the 1964 earthquake, when a portion of one span dropped into the river. The bridge was repaired in 2005, allowing vehicles or pedestrians to cross, although there isn't much road beyond the bridge.
The bridge and nearby Childs Glacier create one of Cordova's main attractions.
The glacier ends at the edge of the powerful Copper River. As the river undercuts the 300-foot-tall face of the glacier, huge chunks of ice fall into the river. A night spent camping at the Childs Glacier Recreation Area will often be interrupted by what sounds like thunder booming in the distance. The recreation area has spaces for tent and RV campers.
The 48-mile Copper River Highway is gravel most of the way, but it's an easy drive and even makes for an enjoyable bicycle ride. The highway crosses the Copper River Delta. Visitors to the highway may spot moose, bears and bald eagles in addition to many other birds.
Special sections editor Steve Edwards can be reached at sedwards@adn.com or 257-4316. Visit his Alaska travel blog at www.alaska.com/alaskology.
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What locals say
"In Cordova, the phrase 'combat fishing' means you can maybe see four other people somewhere in your view while you're fishing."
-- Martin Moe, executive director of the Cordova Chamber of Commerce /span>
Editor's picks
• Ice and bridge: The highlight of a trip to Cordova is a journey down the Copper River Highway to the Million Dollar Bridge and Childs Glacier. The view is worth more than a million. From the deck of the bridge, Childs Glacier is to the west and Miles Glacier is to the east.
• A fishing town: There are two ways to enjoy it: 1) Get out on a charter boat or fish for salmon from a roadside stream, 2) Watch the commercial fleet coming and going.
• Ride the waves: Getting to Cordova can be half the fun. The Alaska Marine Highway's MV Chenega takes only a bit more than three hours to cross from Whittier to Cordova. The scenery is beautiful; it's a sightseeing trip and transportation all in one.
