Seeing Mount McKinley is a fabulous experience.
I've seen it up close during a backpacking trip in Denali State Park, from the Parks Highway in the Valley and from as far away as Anchorage. Sometimes, I've seen it for days in a row on my commute to work. Some visitors never see it at all.
The weather makes the mountain finicky. On a clear day, it's visible for hundreds of miles. On a cloudy day, you can't see it from Wonder Lake in the heart of Denali National Park.
But about 400,000 visitors annually trek to Denali, one of Alaska's top tourist destinations, hoping to see the mountain. But even if it's cloudy and Mount McKinley stays hidden, the national park has plenty to keep those visitors busy.
The park is more than 6 million acres. To put that in perspective, it's bigger than New Hampshire, Massachusetts and New Jersey and several other states. It's home to an impressive list of animal life - 39 species of mammals, 167 species of birds, 10 species of fish and even one amphibian, the wood frog.
Chief among the animals are the "big five" mammals - grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou and Dall sheep.
"Most people come here for two reasons - they want to see Mount McKinley and they want to see wildlife," said parks spokeswoman Kris Fister. "It's amazing to see both the mountain and all this wildlife right from the park road.
"There's a good chance people will see grizzly bears. The animals that are more out in the open - the grizzlies, the caribou, Dall sheep - those are the ones you're most likely to see. We've been really fortunate to have incredibly good wolf visibility the past couple years."
All the animals roam freely throughout the park. The grizzlies, one of the most popular for visitors, often spend time wandering the rivers that snake through Denali or digging for food on the hillsides. Occasionally, they'll wander out on the park's only road and stroll down the middle of the gravel pathway, stopping traffic and creating a perfect photo opportunity.
Plenty of bears call the park home, up to 32 bears per 1,000 square kilometers, according to a recent study.
Of course, Mount McKinley, North America's tallest mountain at 20,320 feet, is a huge draw. Locally known as Denali, the mountain is part of the 600-mile Alaska Range, which includes many other spectacular mountains and many glaciers. Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter are McKinley's neighbors in the park. Foraker is 17,400 feet and Hunter is 14,573 feet tall.
Measured from the 2,000-foot lowlands to its summit, Mount McKinley's vertical relief of 18,000 feet is greater than that of Mount Everest. Everest is 29,035 feet tall.
The massive mountains create their own weather systems, which explains why Mount McKinley sometimes is hidden in the clouds.
"Summertime is when we get precipitation and clouds," Fister said. "The big Alaska Range gathers a lot of clouds, and that really big thing in the middle of it - McKinley - sometimes it gets lost in the clouds.
"The longer you spend in the park, the more likely you are to see the mountain. But there are no guarantees."
Hundreds of mountain climbers try to make their way to the summit during the early summer. If you're a little less adventurous, the park's easy-to-use bus system is the best way to travel in Denali. The buses are about the only vehicles traveling on the park's 91-mile road, which ends at Kantishna. Private vehicles must turn around at Mile 15.
The park's buses are divided into two categories: tour bus and shuttle bus. Some shuttle buses also provide transportation for backpackers, campers and bike riders. The buses look like school buses, but they are different colors. The tour buses are tan and the shuttle buses are green.
For visitors choosing the tour buses, there are two options: the Denali natural history tour and the tundra wilderness tour.
The natural history tour is a five-hour, fully narrated cultural history tour to Primrose Ridge at Mile 17 of Denali Park Road. It includes a stop at the historic Savage Cabin and an Alaska Native interpretation program. Tickets are $62.05 for adults and $26.30 for children 14 and younger. Tickets include the $10 park admission fee.
The peak season tundra wilderness tour is six to eight hours and goes to the Toklat River at Mile 53. The guided tour is $93.75 for adults and $42 for children. Early- and late-season tours are four to five hours and go to Mile 29. Those tours are $66.25 and $28.25. Box lunches are included on the tours.
Shuttle buses stop at various locations along the road, with the final stop at Kantishna. Trips aboard the shuttle buses are informal and no food is provided. The bus drivers can help spot wildlife. Prices start at $19.50 for adults and $9.75 for young adults. For $37.50 and $18.75, shuttle bus riders can take the trip all the way to Kantishna. Those prices are in addition to the admission fee.
"The bus system helps people get into and enjoy the park," Fister said. "There are two basic choices, and you should pick the one that fits your schedule and personality the best.
"The shuttles are basically a visitor transportation system. The drivers don't provide an interpretive tour, although they do point out wildlife. You have the opportunity to get off, hike around a bit and then get on the next shuttle bus. It gives you a lot of flexibility.
"On the tour buses, you are paying for the guided tour too. You get an interpretive tour. The shorter tour is more of a cultural history tour. On the longer tour, you have potential to see more stuff, especially wildlife."
Fister said the shuttle buses are perfect for visitors who want to spend some time on their own hiking in the park. There are several short hiking trails accessible from the park road. Once visitors are ready to return, they should work their way back to the roadway and flag down the next available shuttle bus. Dogs are not allowed inside the park.
There is a lot of activity at the park's entrance. The old visitor center is serving as the Wilderness Access Center, where visitors can purchase bus tickets and make campground reservations. Next door is the Backcountry Information Center, where backcountry permits are available.
The three-year-old visitor center is about a half-mile up the road. Films are shown on the hour and half-hour, rangers are available to answer questions and lead hikes, and there are interpretive displays. A shuttle bus to the sled dog demonstration area leaves from the visitor center. There is a temporary visitor center inside the park at the Toklat River while the Eielson Visitor Center is rebuilt. It should open in 2008.
There also are ranger-led hikes for those who want the security or the added information that comes from an experienced guide.
One of the highlights for many visitors is the park's sled dog demonstration. The park has a kennel of about 30 sled dogs. The dogs are used in the winter months for travel within the park, which has been the case since the kennel was first created in the early 1920s. In the summer, they are busy putting on demonstrations three times a day. During the demo, rangers explain the current and historical uses for the sled dogs and also hitch a few dogs to a wheeled cart for a short trip.
Special sections editor Steve Edwards can be reached at sedwards@adn.com or 257-4316. Visit his Alaska travel blog at www.alaska.com/alaskology.
Denali: Getting there
- The easiest way to get to Denali National Park and Preserve is by driving or taking the train. The park is off the Parks Highway, 237 miles north of Anchorage and 120 miles south of Fairbanks. Independent drivers will enjoy the many places to pull over and take in the scenery on clear days. Fairbanks and Anchorage have several private bus services available for those who don't want to drive. Rates vary; expect to pay about $75 from Anchorage and $50 from Fairbanks.
- The Alaska Railroad also offers service straight into the park. Railroad employees serve as interpretive guides and highlight points of interest along the route including scenic views, historic locations and natural history. For details, call 1-800-544-0552 or 265-2494 or visit www.alaskarailroad.com.
- Gray Line of Alaska railroad cars hitch a ride with the Alaska Railroad engines. The McKinley Explorer domed cars provide travel to Denali. For more information, call 1-800-544-2206 or visit www.graylinealaska.com.
Denali Highway
- The Denali Highway is a 135-mile roadway from Cantwell, near Denali National Park, east to Paxson. Paxson is off the Richardson Highway. The road is mostly gravel.
- The Denali Highway was the main vehicle access to Denali National Park before the Parks Highway was built in 1971. Today, the highway attracts people for its old-time Alaska charm.
- The area has beautiful views, abundant wildlife, countless lakes and excellent hiking opportunities.
- Drive the road at a reasonable speed and you should have no problems. Just in case, be prepared for flat tires and overheated engines. Some car rental companies do not allow their vehicles on the road.
Editor's picks
- Get some info: This is the third summer for the new visitors center near the entrance to the park. It is packed with information. Stop by to get a preview of what you'll see in the park.
- Get on the bus: To really experience Denali National Park, you have to get deep inside it. The best way to do that is on a tour or shuttle bus. Expect a several-hour trip; seeing this magnificent part of Alaska is why you're here. Sit back and enjoy ... and keep your eyes open for animals.
- Get wet: Several companies will take you for a white-water rafting trip on the Nenana River. It's an adrenaline rush you won't forget.
- Get in the air: If you haven't seen Mount McKinley from the air from another location, get on a flightseeing tour.
- Get into mushing: Watch a dog sled demonstration in the park or with nearby Iditarod mushers Jeff King (www.huskyhomestead.com) or Ramy Brooks (www.ramybrooks.com).
