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Campers who want to avoid the crowds and see "the real Denali" can ask for a backcountry permit, which allows hikers to spend one or more nights in a particular part of the park where there are no established campsites.

Even in a park and preserve the size of Massachusetts, only one or two permits are given for each section as a way of protecting the scenery and wildlife from overuse. The permits are available at the visitors center at the park.

Backcountry campers are expected, once they leave the shuttle or camper bus, to fend for themselves. In making preparations, campers should expect widely varying weather (including winds, rain and snow).

All of Denali's campgrounds and registered backcountry areas are on the north side of the Alaska Range, where the park road is. The southern part of the park is open to anyone who wants to either ford the rivers and walk through forest or hike across the Alaska Range.

Backcountry campers are required to carry bear-resistant containers for their food. The purpose of these hard plastic cylinders is twofold: to protect the food and to protect the bears who would otherwise learn to associate humans with food.

Backcountry campers can get last-minute advice and bear-resistant containers from the rangers at the visitor center's backcountry desk.

People who drive to Denali but want to camp in the backcountry can park in a special lot near the Riley Creek campground.

Getting to the country

Hiking and biking are permitted along the road. In addition, day hikers may wander across the tundra but are expected to catch a bus out by the end of the day. Cyclists may ride only on the road.

Backpackers can arrange to ride a "camper bus," which are like the other green shuttle buses but that have had several rows of seats removed in back to accommodate large packs, inflatable boats and bikes. (Space for bikes is limited to 2, so request bike space when making your reservation.)

Camper buses pass all the campgrounds and go all the way to Kantishna, Mile 90 of the park road.

Special bus passes for campers

Camper bus fares are $22.50 for adults and $11.25 for teens 15-17. Youths 14 and under ride free but must have tickets.

The park also has a Teklanika pass, which lets campers at the Mile 29 Teklanika Campground ride the bus deeper into the park three times. It's also $22.50, or $11.25 for 15- to 17-year-olds.